Ambience executive chef and owner Morgon Song, above, "is the most artistic, eclectic and skilled chef I have encountered in our area," says Bee restaurant critic Blair Anthony Robertson ... The year 2009 began with a 90-minute wait for our food – at Grange, the hot new hotel restaurant downtown that would soon establish itself as an enlightened and exciting fine-dining fixture ... Grange was my first review as The Bee's restaurant critic. It was a chance to introduce Sacramento to a chef